South Island by Motorcycle
South Island
Getting There
Not in the South Island but still no traffic to speak of. Started with a run down to Raglan on the West side of the Waikato, bit out of the way but it's a terrific road. The bike ran sweetly for the day apart from a minor cock up about how much fuel was in it to start with, luckily there was a gas station just out of Raglan.
Lunch at Pirongia and a look at the forecast at http://www.metvuw.com/ gave some cause for concern. Nasty weather topmorrow and a late start today seem to have put off tomorrows planned trip around Mount Egmont. Heavy rain coming in from the Tasman made decided me to head down the centre of the Island rather than the west coast so I turned off at Te Kuiti and went down to Tangawai to see the outcome of Mt Ruapehu's lahar, most impressive (see photo), glad it stayed where it was supposed to be.
RNZAF Museum to Close

Unexpectedly for Taihape the breakfast was as good as the previous nights dinner, this time "Eggs Florentine". Seems Cafe Exchange is in the old Phone Exchange. I was even able to use my newly acquired toothbrush and toothpaste in their very clean toilet (yes I'd forgotten mine)
With my early start I had plenty of time to work out a plan for the day. First Gravity Canyon (Gravity Canon as Garmin call it) sounded interesting. I'd also seen in the local rag over breakfast that the Airforce Museum at Ohakea is to close. I'd seen it with my parents when the came out in 1976 (ish?) so it had to be on the agenda.
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On the Boat

5:30am but wait, I have the most expensive earplugs money can buy, what if I put them in my ears?
BLISS! Up around 8:30, something of a sleep in.
Wet this morning in Wellington so no rush, a quite day with some email and a coffee in town seemed to be in order rather than dicing with greasy roads. Took a little tour up Mt Victoria and a lady recommended the view from the Turbine (picture). She was right.
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The Serious Stuff

Decided to pass on the aviation museum while the weather was good and made for Murcheson and the Lewis Pass. The roads are empty and enough turns and stuff to keep them really interesting. Much of the countryside is very reminiscent of Scotland, even the climate is similar. Today went from too hot in just the jacket and trowser shells to linings in, scarf on and heated grips on. Then back again.
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A Day at the Races

Onward on Monday looking at the East coast
Picture of Bruce Baylis qualifying in his Formula Ford in the South Island championship Add a comment
Bluff Oysters, Yum!

Our mate in in the photo is a rare yellow eyed penguin, presumably hoping to avoid being eaten by one of the seals around the corner or a dog. He seemed somewhat dejected, I on the other hand was delighted to see him and his seal mates at Shag Point, a location obviously named by a settler with little or no imagination, the place is full of shags, seals, penguins and shear-waters (I read the sign).
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The Southern Scenic Route

Second impression of Dunedin was a step up from the first. The centre is rather nice with some very interesting buildings and nice cafes. Good job too, the bit I stayed in was no better in daylight.
First up was a run out on the Otago Peninsular from Dunedin, this was hugely scenic (picture) and a bit twisty but no barriers on the road/waters edge. Larnach Castles owners are looking for $20 for butchers at their 19th century folly so I gave that a swerve, I really only wanted the cafe and the bog (see above). Out to the end and Tairoa Head then back again. Very nice and recommended.
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Old Mandeville

I'd taken a bit of time to plan the route with Doreen this time and turn off the main road just after Winton. The roads from here to Old Mandeville are just fantastic as is the collection of antique, working De Haviland aircraft! This is a must see and the coffee is pretty good too. No idea how they make money out of this.
Pressing on Doreen takes the back way to Hinton and Roxburgh by way of fabulous, empty open roads, whow! It's something of a disappointment to get back on the main road to Alexandria. Lunch in Alex which is a nice little town and then on to Cromwell and over the Crown Range to Wanaka. This would rate as the best motorcycling day ever. Add a comment
Something Different

The weather was virtually cloudless, warm and sunny. Better yet no sandflies (a curse apon the West Coast, you may think you've seen sandflies but these suckers are really the business).
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Adventurous or Just Plain Stupid?

Undeterred the first 20 minutes was very wet but the weather cleared up to dry roads the further East. By the time I reached Alexandria it was back to sunny albeit a bit cool, and ready for a coffee and muffin at the cafe I stopped at on the way in.
From Alex a wrong turn down Little Valley Road, something of moonscape but very scenic and quite a solid dirt road. It was a dead end so all the way back and this time the correct turn taking the back way to Oturehua. Another great ride.
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Damp Gloves

Anyway a fantastic cloudless day with a very cold southerly. Hard to believe that less than two weeks ago the temperature was 15-20 C warmer. All day three layers of merino icebreakers under the DriRider and heated grips full on!
Second impressions of Oamaru were much better than the first. They still do nothing with he waterfront but the towns cafes and restaurants that I tried were very nice and the people friendly, smiles and chat were readily forthcoming. There is a penguin colony at the harbour but the penguins are only at home late in the day
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More Passes

Last night, after a close look at the weather map, I decided to make the full excursion as originally hoped for and head for the West Coast over Arthur's Pass. On the Canterbury Plains I rather began to have second thoughts as the gale force winds were pushing the bike around more than slightly.
But what a good idea it was as the passes were somewhat sheltered from the worst of the wind and the weather held for 98% of the time only drawback was the bitter cold the higher up in the mountains I got. Stopped for an excellent home made venison pie lunch at Jacksons (a pub just west of the Pass itself).
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Into the Sounds

Packed up and loaded the machine and set off in search of fuel for the beast and breakfast for me. We'll say no more of breakfast, it was a little basic. The machine seemed happy on it's diet and today turned 6,000km old, two months worth, I suspect I'll slow down shortly.
The rain lasted on and off through the Buller Gorge giving a serious new emotion to the ride. Fear. The wet and greasy roads were deserted but not user friendly. Anyway by Murcheson and a morning coffee stop things had mostly dried out although there were still areas of wet to contend with.
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Senior!?!
No matter it's one of the best displays on vintage aircraft that I've seen anywhere ever. The money and care that have been put into it are just staggering. A definite must see on anyones itinerary.
The seas of the past few days had eased so an easy crossing and a pleasant night with friends in Wellington
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Home Again, Home Again
Seems hard to believe it's over.
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