It seems Eureka and the surrounding Humboldt County have a considerable homeless population, opinions on the reason for this vary and the opinions on what to do about it vary still more. What is clear is that there are lots of them and it’s very intimidating, one wag on TripAdvisor suggests that they outnumber the tourists. Perhaps.
There have been considerable attempts to smarten the place up and some of the historic old town is very nice indeed but groups of people drinking at 8am on the streets is disturbing.
Breakfast is a rather stale muffin for me and a similar bagel for Mary. The coffee is good however but we struggle to make ourselves understood. There are seals in the rather nice marina which must be a good sign though.
The rangers at the Redwood Park are very helpful and provide a map and recommendations as to what to see. The major of these is the Lady Bird Johnston Grove (dedicated to LBJ’s wife) which turns out to be an hours walk through these magnificent trees. Just fabulous.
Onward passing through unprepossessing coastal towns that are little more than strip malls and RV parks to the Klamath River and a look out. We can hear the seals and a nice man from Michigan points out a bald eagle sitting on a rock in the sea. I’ve taken a photo.
A little furrther up the coast we take a walk on the beach and meet a couple picking up opals on the beach, apparenty it's a hobby of thiers.
The award for the worst lunch of the trip so far must go to the Crescent City Subway for having a sick person with a hacking cough making the sandwiches. In an unsurprising coup they also get the worst toilet award. Truly a magnificent effort.
Once you get away from the nasty towns the coast is magnificent and the old town of Bandon is actually very nice although there is a lot of new development. The Table Rock Motel is a welcome relief from the horror of Eureka Town House. There are clearly nice cafes and the Edgewater is one of them, fresh salmon for me and scampi for Mary washed down with an NZ sauvignon blanc. Excellent.